India Couture Week: Designer Dolly J on the modern ‘choli’

Designer Dolly J's  couture collection, La Vie En Rose, showcased last week at the ongoing Hyundai India Couture Week in Delhi embodied floral texturing. Richly beaded gowns in silver, gold, champagne, blue and red accented with thigh-high slits, corset darts and tactile shrugs set the mood for high glamour. 

"Instead of a historical voyage, the collection exalts the allure of escapism," said the designer before the show. The 40-odd looks also saw a generous use of lurex metallic fabrics. "I'm captivated by their attention-grabbing effect. Not only are they incredibly versatile and resilient, but they also enable me to craft pieces that embody poise and flair," Dolly said.

In an interview with Lounge, the designer talked about her collection and the modern bride. Edited excerpts:

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Corsets are slowly replacing the ‘choli’. What's your take on the corset trend this season?

The corset is emerging as a stylish alternative to the conventional Indian bridal choli, and this season's trend seamlessly merges modern flair with classic sophistication. Corsets accentuate the figure, offer a tailored fit, and can be ornately designed to rival the grandeur of traditional bridal attire. 

This fusion of heritage and innovation empowers brides to showcase their individuality. 

A lot of recently held red-carpet events saw designers giving an hourglass or mermaid-like silhouette to the lehnga. Do you see it as a macro trend?

Yes. I find the trend elegant. These silhouettes accentuate the figure beautifully, adding a touch of glamour and sophistication to the outfits. It's a stylish evolution that brings a modern flair to traditional attire, making a striking statement on the red carpet.

What are the new demands of the new-age bride and bridesmaids? What have been your key retail learnings?

The Indian wedding has undergone a significant evolution, with brides now unapologetically expressing their individuality. The conventional shy bride is a thing of the past, replaced by a confident, modern woman who forges her own path to happiness and self-discovery. She is open to trying new things, she seeks unique drapes and effortless, flowing cuts that allow for unrestrained movement, perfect for dancing the night away.

The word ‘couture’ in India is loosely used for anything ornate or opulent. Your take?

In the realm of fashion, “couture” denotes custom-made clothing that exemplifies meticulous attention to detail, precision and expertise. It entails exceptional tailoring, where each piece is painstakingly crafted to fit an individual's precise measurements, utilising only the finest materials and techniques. 

While I agree that the term “couture” is often misused in India to describe anything extravagant or luxurious, I also partially disagree. This is because the Indian couture collections showcased at India Couture Week embody all the aforementioned qualities, including meticulous attention to detail, precision, and expertise, as well as impeccable, bespoke tailoring that caters to a specific customer.

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