Why Ras Al Khaimah is your culinary passport to the Middle East

Clouds of fragrant smoke billow out of the crab cake while I sit with my feet buried in the sand and eyes transfixed at the most enchanting sunset ever. The scents and sounds of the tranquil Arabian Gulf and the softly blowing sea breeze make for the perfect setting for my maiden meal in Ras Al Khaimah. I am at Beach House a restaurant at Mövenpick Resort Al Marjan Island. Often abbreviated as RAK, Ras Al Khaimah is one of the seven emirates that make up the United Arab Emirates (UAE).

Shaped by the ocean
Sharing Oman’s dramatic mountains and a love of amber desert, RAK’s landscape mirrors its Emirati neighbours’. Think endless sand dunes dotted with scraggly bushes, all leading to a stunning 40-mile turquoise coastline. The cuisine, however, is a delicious blend of Arabian, Persian, Indian and African influences. Being a trade centre for centuries, made RAK a hotbed of spices, while the harsh desert environment led to innovative food preservation methods and spicing techniques. The discovery of oil attracted a global population, further enriching its culinary diversity. Today, the emirate fringed by the jagged Jebel Jais mountains, boasts a range of dining options from traditional Arabic cuisine at bustling souks to fusion Asian at food trucks and European classics at luxury retreats.

“A distinctive feature is the use of locally grown herbs and spices. In RAK we love our zatar, a blend of wild thyme and sumac, which adds a unique, tangy flavour to many dishes. Additionally, saffron, cardamom and cinnamon are frequently used for warmth and depth to both savoury and sweet preparations,” says Nuri Annac, executive chef, InterContinental Ras Al Khaimah Mina Al Arab Resort & Spa.

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Local delights

The food in RAK centers around hearty staples: Meat, grains and dairy take center stage followed by dates and roasted nuts. Dried limes known as loomi are often used to add a sour zing to recipes. Many traditional dishes come in the form of one-pot stews. This resourceful practice likely originated from the desert environment, where having fewer dishes to wash was essential. The machboos is the best example of a one-pot wonder, and the best culinary ambassador for Emirati cuisine. Imagine fluffy rice infused with saffron, cradling tender pieces of meat–a flavour and texture party in every bite. No wonder it’s a favourite among both locals and visitors. The family owned Skeek Restaurant and Café in Dahan, serves the most flavourful machboos garnished with charred lemon and a side of raita. Wash it down with a chilled glass of refreshing laban a watered down yogurt drink. Think of it as the Middle Eastern version of the salted lassi.

My absolute favourite is harees, a porridge of cracked wheat slow-cooked with chicken or lamb until it reaches a melt-in-the-mouth smoothness and bursts with warmth thanks to cardamom and cinnamon. Desserts include bite-sized sweet dumpling luqaimat devoured all over the UAE and umm ali (translates to mother of Ali in Arabic) which is a croissant soaked in condensed milk and topped with nuts. This creamy treat with a delightful textural contrast between soft and satisfyingly crunchy is spoon-licking good.

Memorable eats in RAK

Boons the French brasserie at Mövenpick Resort does succulent moules-frites (mussels steamed in a broth of white wine), steaks and crêpes suzette. I particularly enjoyed the deliciously seductive chocolate fondant. Like the most romantic engagements, the perfect fondant is hot and intense with a meltingly soft centre and the Boon fondant is exactly that. Time your visit to coincide with the resort’s chocolate hour when guests can dip fresh fruits, decadent cakes and fluffy marshmallows into a captivating fountain of melted chocolate in the lobby.

One of my most memorable meals in RAK was undoubtedly at the restaurant 1484 by Puro. Especially, since it came after a thrilling flight across the rugged peaks of Jebel Jais in the world’s longest zipline. Perched at a height of 1484 meters above sea level (hence the name) it’s the highest restaurant in the UAE. Apart from the glorious view of the Hajar mountains and the sumptuous beef tapsilog (a Filipino breakfast of beef with a generous portion of garlic rice) it’s also the best place to escape the sizzling Emirati sun.

If you are someone who misses fast food on your travels, RAK won’t disappoint. From gooey cheeseburgers to New York-style pizza slices as big as your face, American foods have a strong hold in the northern most Emirate. Thunder Road Pizza & Grill in Al Riffa is where American heartiness blends with Italian flair. Their cowboy pizza and the smoky burger shines the brightest among the limited menu. Spice lovers can ‘unleash the kraken’ by calling for the La Bomba sauce. It will add some serious fireworks to your fries.

Turkish- Lebanese cuisine with outdoor fire pits are extremely popular. At the premium dining destination Levant & Nar perched on the edge of the InterContinental, diners are met with the unmistakable aroma of fresh bread being baked, hunks of meat sizzling on the grill and Levantine spices being toasted. Tulum peyniri a salad featuring the tangy and salty tulum peyniri cheese with fresh tomatoes and bell peppers comes highly recommended along with iskender kebap which comes riding a pide bread blanketed with creamy yogurt, topped with smoky lamb and a cascade of warm butter. Though RAK in July may feel like a relentless furnace, salvation comes in the form of a delightful array of beverages.

Jallab an intensely sweet drink made from dates and grape molasses and served with lots of crushed ice and topped with pine nuts is the most beloved in the region. The real fun is in using your straw to scoop out the pine nuts hiding at the bottom of the glass. Qamar el-deen, a sweet, tangy apricot beverage is another delicious way to stay hydrated. But nothing beats a glass of chilled, refreshingly tart karkadeh, a hibiscus tea that I drank gallons.

Nivedita Jayaram Pawar is a Mumbai-based food writer.

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